In the area known as Gallura, the Gulf of Olbia is spectacularly backed by an amphitheatre of granite mountains and extraordinary wind-sculpted rock formations. To the south of the city rises the knife-edge of Tavolara Island, towering over the bay. To the north is the über glamorous Costa Smeralda and other resorts, all lapped by the same limpid turquoise seas. Inland awaits a different world, going back into the mists of time. The area around Arzachena is honeycombed with prehistoric sites, all reminders that this is one of Europe’s oldest islands.